Velvet Lily-Stingray Amigurumi Pattern: A Plush Aquatic Guide

Warm greetings once again. We have established our path. I have refined the construction, deciding that for velvet yarn, a seamless, top-down 3D spiral is far superior to sewing two flat pieces together. It eliminates bulky seams and preserves the rounded, chubby aesthetic you desire. We shall execute the entire body in velvet to maintain absolute fidelity to your request.

About This Creation

Seraphina is an exercise in structural elegance. The magic lies in the asymmetrical increases that pull the fabric outward to create the wingspan, followed by sharp, grouped decreases to taper the body toward the tail. The “gaze of innocence” is achieved by strictly placing large eyes wide apart on a specific horizontal plane, capturing that viral aesthetic.

Project Snapshot

✨ Skill Level: Intermediate

✨ Construction: Seamless body worked from nose to tail, separate attachments for flora.

✨ Core Technique: Sc3tog (Single crochet 3 together) for sharp tapering.

Materials

🧶 Mint Green Velvet Yarn (Chunky/Bulky weight, approx 100g)

🧶 Forest Green Velvet Yarn (For the lily pad)

🧶 White and Bright Yellow Velvet Yarn (For the lotus petals and center)

🪡 5.0mm Crochet Hook (Adjust for tension; fabric must be tight)

✨ 24mm Safety Eyes (Sparkle/Galaxy style preferred)

✨ High-quality polyfill stuffing

🪡 Large-eye yarn needle for assembly

➡️ Stitch markers (Crucial for tracking the side points)

Abbreviations

🧶 MR: Magic Ring

🧶 sc: single crochet

🧶 inc: increase (2 sc in one stitch)

🧶 dec: standard decrease (sc 2 together)

🧶 sc3tog: single crochet 3 together (decrease across 3 stitches)

🧶 hdc: half double crochet

🧶 sl st: slip stitch

🧶 ch: chain

🧶 st/sts: stitch/stitches

The Pattern

The Mantle and Tail (Mint Green Velvet)

We begin at the nose and work continuously in the round.

Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Round 2: 1 sc, [3 sc in next st], 2 sc, [3 sc in next st], 1 sc. (10)

Round 3: 2 sc, [3 sc in next st], 4 sc, [3 sc in next st], 2 sc. (14)

Round 4: 3 sc, [3 sc in next st], 6 sc, [3 sc in next st], 3 sc. (18)

Round 5: 4 sc, [3 sc in next st], 8 sc, [3 sc in next st], 4 sc. (22)

Round 6: 5 sc, [3 sc in next st], 10 sc, [3 sc in next st], 5 sc. (26)

Round 7: 6 sc, [3 sc in next st], 12 sc, [3 sc in next st], 6 sc. (30)

Round 8: 7 sc, [3 sc in next st], 14 sc, [3 sc in next st], 7 sc. (34)

Round 9: 8 sc, [3 sc in next st], 16 sc, [3 sc in next st], 8 sc. (38)

Round 10: 9 sc, [3 sc in next st], 18 sc, [3 sc in next st], 9 sc. (42)

Round 11: 10 sc, [3 sc in next st], 20 sc, [3 sc in next st], 10 sc. (46)

Round 12: 11 sc, [3 sc in next st], 22 sc, [3 sc in next st], 11 sc. (50)

Round 13: 12 sc, [3 sc in next st], 24 sc, [3 sc in next st], 12 sc. (54)

Round 14: 13 sc, [3 sc in next st], 26 sc, [3 sc in next st], 13 sc. (58)

Round 15: 14 sc, [3 sc in next st], 28 sc, [3 sc in next st], 14 sc. (62)

Round 16: 15 sc, [3 sc in next st], 30 sc, [3 sc in next st], 15 sc. (66)

Round 17: 16 sc, [3 sc in next st], 32 sc, [3 sc in next st], 16 sc. (70)

Round 18: 17 sc, [3 sc in next st], 34 sc, [3 sc in next st], 17 sc. (74)

Rounds 19-21: 1 sc in each st around. (74)

Safety Eye Placement: Insert the 24mm eyes firmly between Rounds 14 and 15 on the top surface. The first 37 stitches of the round constitute the top surface. Count 14 stitches inward from the side point for the first eye, leave 9 stitches blank, and place the second eye. Secure the backings tightly.

Round 22: 17 sc, [sc3tog], 34 sc, [sc3tog], 17 sc. (70)

Round 23: 16 sc, [sc3tog], 32 sc, [sc3tog], 16 sc. (66)

Round 24: 15 sc, [sc3tog], 30 sc, [sc3tog], 15 sc. (62)

Round 25: 14 sc, [sc3tog], 28 sc, [sc3tog], 14 sc. (58)

Round 26: 13 sc, [sc3tog], 26 sc, [sc3tog], 13 sc. (54)

Round 27: 12 sc, [sc3tog], 24 sc, [sc3tog], 12 sc. (50)

Round 28: 11 sc, [sc3tog], 22 sc, [sc3tog], 11 sc. (46)

Round 29: 10 sc, [sc3tog], 20 sc, [sc3tog], 10 sc. (42)

Round 30: 9 sc, [sc3tog], 18 sc, [sc3tog], 9 sc. (38)

Begin stuffing the wings firmly. Push the stuffing into the side points to ensure they maintain their wide structure.

Round 31: 8 sc, [sc3tog], 16 sc, [sc3tog], 8 sc. (34)

Round 32: 7 sc, [sc3tog], 14 sc, [sc3tog], 7 sc. (30)

Round 33: 6 sc, [sc3tog], 12 sc, [sc3tog], 6 sc. (26)

Round 34: 5 sc, [sc3tog], 10 sc, [sc3tog], 5 sc. (22)

Round 35: 4 sc, [sc3tog], 8 sc, [sc3tog], 4 sc. (18)

Round 36: 3 sc, [sc3tog], 6 sc, [sc3tog], 3 sc. (14)

Round 37: 2 sc, [sc3tog], 4 sc, [sc3tog], 2 sc. (10)

Round 38: 1 sc, [sc3tog], 2 sc, [sc3tog], 1 sc. (6)

Finish stuffing the main body completely.

Rounds 39-46: 1 sc in each st around to form the tail. (6)

Round 47: [dec, 1 sc] x 2. (4)

Fasten off, weave the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining 4 stitches, pull tight to close, and hide the end inside the body.

The Lily Pad (Forest Green Velvet)

Worked in rows to create the natural “split” of a lily pad leaf.

Row 1: 6 sc in MR, ch 1, turn. Do not join. (6)

Row 2: [inc] x 6, ch 1, turn. (12)

Row 3: [inc, 1 sc] x 6, ch 1, turn. (18)

Row 4: [inc, 2 sc] x 6, ch 1, turn. (24)

Row 5: [inc, 3 sc] x 6, ch 1, turn. (30)

Row 6: [inc, 4 sc] x 6. (36)

Fasten off, leaving a long 12-inch tail for sewing.

The Lotus Flower (Yellow and White Velvet)

Center: Using Yellow Velvet.

Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)

Round 2: [inc] x 6. (12)

Fasten off yellow.

Petals: Join White Velvet to the front loops only of Round 2.

Round 3: [Ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, 1 hdc in next ch, sl st into the next stitch on the yellow base] x 12. (You will create 12 distinct, pointed petals).

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Assembly Protocol

➡️ Position the Forest Green Lily Pad precisely over the top center of the ray’s back (spanning from approximately Round 18 to Round 28). Ensure the split of the pad faces toward the tail. Pin securely.

➡️ Using the long green yarn tail, whip stitch the edges of the lily pad to the back, catching only the top fibers of the mint green body to avoid denting the stuffed shape.

➡️ Thread the white tail from the lotus flower. Center the flower directly in the middle of the attached lily pad. Sew it down by passing the needle through the yellow center base directly into the green pad and the body below, pulling taut so it sits flush.

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