My dear maker,
Some patterns teach you to crochet. This one asks you to engineer.
Loomi & Gloomi began with a question that kept me awake for three nights: could a single amigurumi body contain two complete emotional worlds, fully finished on both sides, and flip between them without a single visible seam? The answer required me to rethink everything I knew about crochet construction. Lining. Anchor points. Hidden drawstrings. Strategic arm placement that reads correctly from both orientations. The kind of technical problem-solving that makes my heart race.
What emerged is a Mood Sprite — a palm-sized companion that honors the full spectrum of feeling. One side holds a rain cloud and a furrowed brow. The other side throws its arms wide to a tiny golden sun. Neither side is more true than the other. They coexist, tucked inside each other, waiting for the flip.
This pattern is rated advanced. Not because the stitches are difficult — they are simple single crochets, increases, and decreases — but because the construction logic requires attention and patience. You will be working with lining. You will be anchoring pieces in specific relationship to each other. You will be asked to trust the process during the moments when the project looks like an inside-out puzzle.
But when you finish? When you hold this little creature in your palm and flip it from grumpy to joyful and back again, and the closure disappears, and both faces look up at you with their entirely distinct personalities? That moment is magic. And every person you show it to will ask you to make them one.
With wool, wonder, and a little bit of engineering love,
Patricia Poltera
[📸 PASTE IMAGE 1 HERE]
About This Creation
Loomi & Gloomi represents a structural innovation in amigurumi design: the fully reversible transformation doll. Unlike simple two-sided flat pieces or turn-inside-out color-change gimmicks, this pattern creates a three-dimensional sculptural form that reads as a complete, finished character from both orientations.
The core innovation is the lined shell — a single crocheted body tube that is worked, shaped, lined, and then embroidered on both surfaces to create two distinct characters. The lining serves three functions: it provides a clean interior finish, it anchors the two sides together to prevent shifting during transformation, and it conceals all embroidery floss tails and structural stitching.
The transformation mechanism is a concealed drawstring closure at the base. When tightened and tucked, the closure becomes invisible. When loosened, the entire doll can be pulled through itself, turning inside out to reveal the opposite character. The engineering challenge — and what makes this pattern advanced — is ensuring that both configurations maintain proper proportions, facial placement, and arm positioning despite sharing a single structural shell.
The detachable accessories use a simple loop-and-button attachment system. The rain cloud and sun can be swapped between hands, or removed entirely for display. This modularity adds play value and photographic flexibility.
Project Snapshot
✦ Finished Size: 6 inches tall (15 cm), approximately 3.5 inches wide at the body
✦ Skill Level: Advanced
✦ Techniques Required: Magic ring, single crochet, increase, invisible decrease, working in continuous rounds, surface embroidery, lining construction, anchoring, drawstring casing, loop-and-button attachment, poly pellet weighting
✦ Time to Complete: 15–20 hours
✦ Yarn Weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton-blend recommended for structural integrity
✦ Hook Size: 3.5mm (E)
✦ Unique Features: Fully reversible body, fully lined interior, concealed drawstring closure, two distinct embroidered faces, detachable accessories
Materials
Main Shell — Side A (Gloomi):
✦ Worsted weight cotton-blend yarn in Stormy Gray-Blue — approximately 100 yards
Main Shell — Side B (Loomi):
✦ Worsted weight cotton-blend yarn in Warm Peach-Cream — approximately 100 yards
Lining:
✦ Worsted weight cotton-blend yarn in Soft Dove Gray — approximately 80 yards
Accessories:
✦ Worsted weight yarn in Dark Charcoal (Rain Cloud) — approximately 25 yards
✦ Worsted weight yarn in Pale Silver (Raindrops) — approximately 10 yards
✦ Worsted weight yarn in Golden Yellow (Sun) — approximately 25 yards
✦ Worsted weight yarn in Warm Brown (Sun rays, eye/mouth embroidery on Loomi side) — approximately 15 yards
✦ Worsted weight yarn in Dark Navy (Gloomi eyebrow and mouth embroidery) — approximately 10 yards
✦ Small amount of Bright Coral yarn (Loomi cheek blush embroidery) — approximately 5 yards
Notions & Hardware:
✦ Polyester fiberfill stuffing
✦ Poly pellets (approximately 3 tablespoons total)
✦ Two small scrap fabric squares (3 x 3 inches each) for poly pellet pouches
✦ Two small buttons (approximately 0.25 inch / 6mm diameter) — for accessory attachment
✦ 3.5mm (E) crochet hook
✦ 2.5mm (C) crochet hook (for finer accessory details)
✦ Tapestry needle
✦ Embroidery needle with a sharp point (for facial details)
✦ Stitch markers (at least 4)
✦ Scissors
✦ Small length of thin cotton cord or strong scrap yarn (for drawstring)
✦ Sewing thread in matching colors (for button attachment)
Abbreviations
✦ ch — chain
✦ sc — single crochet
✦ inc — increase (2 sc in same stitch)
✦ invdec — invisible decrease
✦ slst — slip stitch
✦ st(s) — stitch(es)
✦ rnd — round
✦ BLO — back loop only
✦ FLO — front loop only
✦ ( ) — repeat instructions within parentheses
✦ [ ] — total stitch count at end of round
The Pattern
PART ONE: THE MAIN BODY SHELL
This is the heart of the project. The main body shell is a single continuous piece — a tube that is shaped, closed at the top, and later lined. It becomes both Loomi and Gloomi depending on which surface is displayed. Work the shell in your Gloomi color (Stormy Gray-Blue) first. The Loomi color (Warm Peach-Cream) will be joined and worked as an attached lining in Part Three. Read all instructions before beginning.
BODY SHELL — Worked in Stormy Gray-Blue (Gloomi Exterior)
The shell is worked from the bottom opening upward to the crown of the head. The bottom will remain open for now — this opening becomes the transformation point and will be finished with a drawstring casing in Part Four.
Foundation: Ch 31. Join with slst to first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist the chain. Place marker for beginning of round.
Rnd 1: Sc in each ch around [31]
The odd stitch count is intentional. It creates a subtle asymmetry that prevents the body from looking cylindrical and stiff.
Rnd 2: (4 sc, inc) x 6, then 1 sc to complete round [37]
Staggering the final single sc prevents the increases from stacking — this eliminates hexagonal shaping lines.
Rnd 3: 37 sc around [37]
Rnd 4: 37 sc around [37]
Rnd 5: (5 sc, inc) x 6, then 1 sc [43]
Rnd 6: 43 sc around [43]
Rnd 7: 43 sc around [43]
Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6, then 1 sc [49]
Rnd 9: 49 sc around [49]
Rnd 10: 49 sc around [49]
Rounds 1-10 establish the body tube. It should measure approximately 3.5 inches in diameter at this stage. The fabric should be firm — if your tension is loose, consider dropping to a 3.25mm hook for tighter stitch definition.
Rnd 11 (WAIST SHAPING — Begin Decreasing): (6 sc, invdec) x 6, then 1 sc [43]
The waist taper begins here. This creates a subtle hourglass suggestion that differentiates the body from the head section later.
Rnd 12: 43 sc around [43]
Rnd 13: (5 sc, invdec) x 6, then 1 sc [37]
Rnd 14: 37 sc around [37]
Rnd 15: (4 sc, invdec) x 6, then 1 sc [31]
The body section is now complete. The stitch count has returned to 31 — the same as the foundation. Place a contrasting marker here to indicate the waistline. This marker will be essential during lining attachment.
HEAD — Begin Increasing for Crown
Rnd 16: 31 sc around [31]
Rnd 17: (4 sc, inc) x 6, then 1 sc [37]
Rnd 18: 37 sc around [37]
Rnd 19: (5 sc, inc) x 6, then 1 sc [43]
Rnd 20: 43 sc around [43]
Rnd 21: (6 sc, inc) x 6, then 1 sc [49]
Rnd 22: 49 sc around [49]
Rnd 23: 49 sc around [49]
Rnd 24: 49 sc around [49]
Rnd 25: 49 sc around [49]
Rnd 26: 49 sc around [49]
Rnd 27: 49 sc around [49]
Rounds 22-27 create the widest part of the head. This is where the Gloomi face will be embroidered later. The face area spans approximately Rounds 20-30, so the full head width is available for facial features.
Rnd 28 (GLOOMI CHEEK SHAPING — LEFT CHEEK): 20 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 23 sc [51]
Asymmetrical increase placement creates a subtle mound on the left side of Gloomi’s face. This gives the grumpy pout extra dimension — a rounded cheek that suggests held breath or suppressed emotion.
Rnd 29 (GLOOMI CHEEK SHAPING — RIGHT CHEEK): 6 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 39 sc [53]
Mirroring the left cheek. These increases are placed differently than the Loomi-side cheek shaping (which will be worked on the reverse side) — Gloomi’s cheeks sit slightly lower on the face to reinforce the downward, heavy emotional expression.
Rnd 30: 53 sc around [53]
Rnd 31: 53 sc around [53]
Rnd 32: (7 sc, invdec) x 6, then 5 sc to complete round [47]
Rnd 33: (6 sc, invdec) x 6, then 5 sc [41]
Rnd 34: (5 sc, invdec) x 6, then 5 sc [35]
Rnd 35: (4 sc, invdec) x 6, then 5 sc [29]
Rnd 36: (3 sc, invdec) x 6, then 5 sc [23]
Rnd 37: (2 sc, invdec) x 6, then 5 sc [17]
Rnd 38: (1 sc, invdec) x 6, then 5 sc [11]
Rnd 39: (invdec) x 5, then 1 sc [6]
Fasten off. Weave the tail through the front loops of the final 6 stitches and pull tight to close the crown. Secure with a small knot and weave in the end on the INSIDE of the shell. This tail will be hidden by the lining.
GLOOMI FACE EMBROIDERY
Complete all Gloomi facial embroidery now, before proceeding to the lining. The shell is currently right-side-out in Stormy Gray-Blue. This is your Gloomi canvas. Work with the Dark Navy embroidery floss and a sharp embroidery needle.
Eye Placement: Gloomi’s eyes are simple horizontal lines — closed, downturned, conveying grumpiness or displeasure. Position them between Rounds 23 and 25, approximately 10 stitches apart. Each eye is a horizontal line approximately 3 stitches wide. Angle the outer edges down slightly (approximately 15 degrees) to create the furrowed, unhappy expression. Make 4-5 passes with the floss for each eye, building up a visible line.
Eyebrow Placement: Directly above each eye, on Rounds 20-21, embroider a short diagonal line angling down toward the center of the face. Each eyebrow is approximately 2 stitches long. The inner edges (near the center of the face) should sit lower than the outer edges. This is the classic furrowed brow — it transforms neutral eyes into a full grumpy expression.
Mouth Placement: Centered between the eyes, on Rounds 27-28, embroider a small downturned curve — an upside-down smile approximately 3 stitches wide. Make 4-5 passes. The mouth should be closer to the eyes than to the bottom of the head, maintaining the Krocheta baby-schema proportions even on the grumpy character.
Optional Blush: Gloomi does not have blush by default (this differentiates the two characters — Loomi gets the warm cheeks). However, if you wish to add a subtle blue-gray shadow beneath the eyes to deepen the grumpy expression, use a single strand of Dark Navy and make 2-3 tiny horizontal stitches beneath each eye.
Secure all floss tails on the inside of the shell. These will be hidden by the lining. Do not carry floss across the face surface — finish off each feature separately for clean results.
PART TWO: THE ARMS (INTEGRATED INTO SHELL)
The arms are worked separately and then sewn to the body shell at precise anchor points. They are identical in construction — the pose is determined by how they are attached and surfaced. Both arms will be visible from both sides of the finished doll. Gloomi’s arms cross over the chest. Loomi’s arms extend outward. The same arms achieve both poses through different attachment angles and surface tacking.
ARMS (Make 2) — Worked in Stormy Gray-Blue
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x 6 [12]
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: 18 sc around [18]
Rnd 5: 18 sc around [18]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, invdec) x 3 [15]
Rnd 7: 15 sc around [15]
Rnd 8: (3 sc, invdec) x 3 [12]
Rnd 9: 12 sc around [12]
Rnd 10: 12 sc around [12]
Rnd 11 (THUMB SHAPING): 4 sc, (3 sc in same stitch), 7 sc [14]
The triple increase creates the thumb bump on the outer edge of the hand.
Rnd 12: 14 sc around [14]
Rnd 13: 4 sc, invdec (working across two of the three thumb stitches), invdec (working across the remaining thumb stitch and the next stitch), 6 sc [12]
These decreases collapse the thumb bump into a defined thumb shape.
Rnd 14: (2 sc, invdec) x 3 [9]
Lightly stuff the hand area.
Rnd 15: 9 sc around [9]
Rnd 16: 9 sc around [9]
Insert a 5-inch length of 18-gauge crafting wire. Form a small loop at the shoulder end and pad with fabric tape. The wire should extend to Rnd 13 (thumb area) but not protrude.
Finish stuffing the arm lightly around the wire.
Rnd 17: (1 sc, invdec) x 3 [6]
Rnd 18: (invdec) x 3 [3]
Fasten off, weaving the tail through the final 3 front loops. Pull tight. The wire is fully enclosed.
Hand Surface Detailing (Both Arms): Using Stormy Gray-Blue yarn and a tapestry needle, make two vertical surface stitches on each hand to suggest fingers. Stitches should be approximately 2 rounds long, spaced 2 stitches apart, positioned below the thumb.
Set both arms aside. They will be attached after the lining is installed.
PART THREE: THE LINING & LOOMI SURFACE
The lining is the structural backbone of this project. It serves as the interior finish when Gloomi is displayed, and becomes the exterior surface — with Loomi’s face and details — when the doll is flipped. The lining is crocheted separately in Warm Peach-Cream, then inserted and anchored.
LINING SHELL — Worked in Warm Peach-Cream (Loomi Exterior)
The lining shell is worked identically to the main shell in shaping, but begins with a closed crown and ends with an open bottom. This is the inverse construction of the main shell. The lining is worked from the crown down.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x 6 [12]
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 [36]
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]
Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6 [48]
Rnd 9: 48 sc around [48]
The crown is now closed and rounded. This will sit inside the Gloomi crown when assembled.
Rnd 10: 48 sc around [48]
Rnd 11: 48 sc around [48]
Rnd 12: 48 sc around [48]
Rnd 13: 48 sc around [48]
Rnd 14: 48 sc around [48]
Rnd 15: 48 sc around [48]
These rounds create the head width. Loomi’s face will be embroidered here, between Rounds 14 and 22.
Rnd 16 (LOOMI CHEEK SHAPING — LEFT CHEEK): 19 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 23 sc [50]
Loomi’s cheek increases are placed slightly higher than Gloomi’s — this creates a lifted, smiling facial structure that reads as joyful even before the mouth is embroidered.
Rnd 17 (LOOMI CHEEK SHAPING — RIGHT CHEEK): 5 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 39 sc [52]
Rnd 18: 52 sc around [52]
Rnd 19: 52 sc around [52]
Rnd 20: (7 sc, invdec) x 6, then 4 sc [46]
Rnd 21: (6 sc, invdec) x 6, then 4 sc [40]
Rnd 22: (5 sc, invdec) x 6, then 4 sc [34]
The head section of the lining is now complete. The face area spans Rounds 14-22. Embroider Loomi’s face now, before continuing the body section.
LOOMI FACE EMBROIDERY
Loomi’s face is the joyful counterpart to Gloomi. Wide, bright eyes with sparkle details. Curved smiling mouth. Soft coral blush on the cheeks. Work all embroidery in Warm Brown and Bright Coral on the Warm Peach-Cream surface.
Eye Placement: Loomi’s eyes are wide circles with a small sparkle detail. Position them between Rounds 17 and 19, approximately 9 stitches apart. Each eye is a small filled circle approximately 2 stitches in diameter. Make 5-6 passes to build up a solid round shape.
Sparkle Detail: In each eye, use a single strand of white or pale cream embroidery floss (not in the materials list — use scrap) to make one tiny stitch in the upper-right quadrant of the eye circle. This catchlight brings the eyes to life and creates the signature Krocheta gaze of innocence.
Mouth Placement: Centered between the eyes, on Rounds 21-22, embroider a wide upward curve — a smile approximately 5 stitches wide. Make 4-5 passes. The smile should sit well below the eyes (closer to the chin than to the eyes is fine — a wide, open smile on a large head emphasizes the baby schema).
Cheek Blush: Using Bright Coral yarn and a tapestry needle (not an embroidery needle — the softer tip is gentler for blush), make 4-5 small horizontal satin stitches on each cheek, centered below and slightly outside each eye, on approximately Rounds 20-21. The blush should be subtle — soft color, not harsh circles.
Secure all floss tails on the outside of the lining (the side that will face the inside of the main shell when assembled).
LINING SHELL — Body Section Continues
Rnd 23: (4 sc, invdec) x 6, then 4 sc [28]
Rnd 24: 28 sc around [28]
Rnd 25: 28 sc around [28]
Rnd 26: (5 sc, inc) x 5, then 3 sc [33]
The body begins widening here to match the main shell’s proportions.
Rnd 27: (5 sc, inc) x 5, then 3 sc [38]
Wait, let me recalculate — Rnd 26 went from 28 to 33, that’s 5 increases and 23 remaining stitches? Let me verify. 28 divided by 5 is 5 remainder 3. Yes: (5 sc, inc) x 5 = 35, plus 3 sc = 38. But I wrote 33. Let me correct that.
CORRECTION — Rnd 26: (4 sc, inc) x 5, then 3 sc [28 → 33? No. 28 ÷ 5 = 5 remainder 3. (5 sc, inc) x 5 = 35. Plus 3 = 38.]
I need to properly expand the lining body to match the main shell’s 31-stitch circumference. Let me recalculate carefully:
Rnd 23: 28 sc around [28]
Rnd 24: 28 sc around [28]
Rnd 25: (5 sc, inc) x 4, then 4 sc [32]
32 stitches. But the main shell body is 31 at the waist. One stitch difference will not affect the fit — the lining should be ever so slightly smaller than the shell to prevent bunching.
Rnd 26: 32 sc around [32]
Rnd 27: 32 sc around [32]
Rnd 28: 32 sc around [32]
Rnd 29: 32 sc around [32]
Rnd 30: 32 sc around [32]
The lining body is now complete. The bottom of the lining will be sewn to the inside of the main shell’s bottom opening. Do not fasten off — the bottom remains open for now.
LINING ATTACHMENT — Anchoring Points
The lining must be anchored to the main shell at several points to prevent shifting during transformation. These anchor points are sewn with matching yarn and a tapestry needle. Work with the main shell right-side-out (Gloomi visible) and the lining right-side-out (Loomi visible). Insert the lining into the main shell so that the two right sides face each other — Loomi’s face is pressed against the inside of Gloomi’s back, and vice versa. The wrong side of the lining (the inside, where floss tails are hidden) faces the interior cavity.
Align the pieces carefully before anchoring:
Anchor Point 1 — Crown: Using a tapestry needle threaded with Soft Dove Gray yarn, sew the crown of the lining (the magic ring center of Rnd 1) to the crown of the main shell (the closed center of Rnd 39). Make 3-4 small stitches through both layers. This prevents the head from inverting incorrectly during the flip.
Anchor Point 2 — Waist: At the waist marker on the main shell (between Rnds 15 and 16), sew the lining to the shell with 4-5 small stitches around the circumference. This keeps the waist aligned in both configurations.
Anchor Point 3 — Cheeks (Both Sides): On the left side, sew a small anchor stitch connecting the Gloomi left cheek to the corresponding area on Loomi’s side. Repeat on the right side. This ensures the facial features maintain their relative positions.
Anchor Point 4 — Hands (Will be attached after arms): Once arms are attached, the hand tips will be anchored to prevent them from pulling into the body during transformation. This is detailed in Part Four.
PART FOUR: ARM ATTACHMENT & BODY CLOSURE
ARM ATTACHMENT TO MAIN SHELL
The arms are sewn to the main shell at the shoulder position. This is Rounds 14-16 of the main shell (the upper body, just below where the head begins widening). The arms must be attached so that they read correctly from BOTH sides of the finished doll. This is the trickiest spatial reasoning challenge in the pattern.
Positioning for Gloomi (Crossed Arms): When Gloomi is displayed, the arms should cross over the chest. To achieve this, sew the left arm to the right side of the body, and the right arm to the left side of the body. The arms cross at approximately Round 14. Tack the crossed arms together with a small stitch where they overlap — this holds the pose.
Positioning for Loomi (Open Arms): When the doll is flipped and Loomi is displayed, the arms will naturally extend outward because the crossed tacking stitch is now on the inside. The wire in the arms can be gently bent to enhance the open, welcoming pose.
Attachment Method:
- Pin the left arm to the right shoulder area of the main shell (Rounds 14-16, approximately 5 stitches from center front).
- Using the tail from the arm closure, whipstitch the arm to the shell around the shoulder circumference. Make two passes for stability.
- Pin the right arm to the left shoulder area.
- Sew as for the left arm.
- Cross the arms over the chest and tack together with a small stitch of Stormy Gray-Blue yarn. This tack is only on the Gloomi exterior — it does not penetrate through to the lining.
Hand Anchor Points: Once arms are attached, sew a small anchor stitch connecting each hand tip to the inside of the main shell (the Gloomi interior surface). This prevents the hands from being pulled inside out during transformation. The anchor should be loose enough to allow the flip but secure enough to maintain hand position.
BOTTOM CLOSURE — Drawstring Casing
The bottom of the doll must close securely but be openable for transformation. A drawstring casing with a tuck-away cover achieves this.
Preparing the Bottom Opening: The main shell and lining both have open bottoms. Align them so the edges match. The lining should sit slightly inside the main shell (the main shell edge extends approximately 1 round beyond the lining edge).
Casing Round — Main Shell Bottom Edge:
Attach Stormy Gray-Blue yarn to any stitch on the bottom edge of the main shell.
Casing Rnd: Sc in each stitch around the bottom opening. At the end of the round, ch 1, turn. [31 sc plus ch-1 turn]
This creates a folded edge that will form the casing channel.
Casing Round — Continued:
Working in the opposite direction (back toward the body), sc in each stitch around. This creates a tube of fabric at the bottom edge. [31]
Fold this tube upward against the inside of the body and slst it in place to form a hollow channel. The channel should be wide enough to thread a drawstring through.
Joining Lining to Casing: Before closing the casing completely, whipstitch the bottom edge of the lining to the inside edge of the casing channel. This connects the lining and shell at the bottom opening while preserving the drawstring channel.
Drawstring: Thread a 12-inch length of thin cotton cord or strong scrap yarn through the casing channel using a tapestry needle. Both ends should exit through the same gap. Tie the ends together in a small knot.
POLY PELLET POUCHES (Make 2)
Two small weighted pouches provide stability in both configurations. One pouch rests at the bottom of the Gloomi side, one at the bottom of the Loomi side. When the doll is flipped, the active pouch settles to the new bottom.
Pouch Construction (Make 2 in scrap fabric): Cut two 3 x 3 inch squares of cotton fabric. Place 1.5 tablespoons of poly pellets in the center of each. Gather edges and tie securely with scrap yarn.
Pouch Placement — Gloomi Side: Insert one pouch into the doll between the main shell and the lining, positioning it at the bottom of the Gloomi side (near the drawstring casing). Sew the pouch to the inside of the main shell with 2-3 small stitches so it stays in place.
Pouch Placement — Loomi Side: Insert the second pouch between the lining and the main shell, positioning it at the bottom of the Loomi side. Sew the pouch to the inside of the lining. The two pouches should sit on opposite sides of the interior cavity.
TUCK-AWAY COVER
The tuck-away cover is a small crocheted disc that conceals the drawstring closure when the doll is displayed.
Cover Disc — Worked in Soft Dove Gray:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x 6 [12]
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: 18 sc around [18]
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. The disc should be approximately 1.5 inches in diameter — large enough to cover the gathered drawstring opening.
Attachment: Sew one edge of the disc to the inside of the bottom opening (near the drawstring casing) so it functions as a hinged flap. When the drawstring is tightened, tuck the disc into the opening to cover the gathered fabric. The disc sits flush and hides the closure completely.
PART FIVE: ACCESSORIES
RAIN CLOUD (Gloomi’s Accessory)
Cloud Body — Worked in Dark Charcoal:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x 6 [12]
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 [24]
Rnd 5: 24 sc around [24]
Rnd 6: 24 sc around [24]
Rnd 7: 24 sc around [24]
Rnd 8: (2 sc, invdec) x 6 [18]
Begin stuffing the cloud firmly — it should hold a puffy, rounded shape.
Rnd 9: (1 sc, invdec) x 6 [12]
Rnd 10: (invdec) x 6 [6]
Fasten off, weave tail through final 6 front loops, pull tight.
Cloud Bumps (Make 3):
Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring [4]
Rnd 2: (inc) x 4 [8]
Rnd 3: 8 sc around [8]
Rnd 4: (invdec) x 4 [4]
Fasten off, leaving tail. Lightly stuff each bump. Sew bumps to the top and sides of the cloud body to create an irregular, fluffy silhouette.
Raindrops (Make 3) — Worked in Pale Silver:
Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring [4]
Rnd 2: (1 sc, inc) x 2 [6]
Rnd 3: 6 sc around [6]
Rnd 4: (1 sc, invdec) x 2 [4]
Rnd 5: (invdec) x 2 [2]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff. Shape into a teardrop by pinching.
Raindrop Hanging Strands: Using Pale Silver yarn, ch 10 for each strand. Attach one end of each chain to a raindrop top, and the other end to the bottom of the cloud. Space the three raindrops evenly across the cloud base.
Attachment Loop: On the back of the cloud, sew a small loop of Dark Charcoal yarn (ch 6, join to form loop). This loop fits over the button sewn to Gloomi’s hand.
SUN (Loomi’s Accessory)
Sun Body — Worked in Golden Yellow:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]
Rnd 2: (inc) x 6 [12]
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 [24]
Rnd 5: 24 sc around [24]
Rnd 6: 24 sc around [24]
Rnd 7: (2 sc, invdec) x 6 [18]
Begin stuffing.
Rnd 8: (1 sc, invdec) x 6 [12]
Rnd 9: (invdec) x 6 [6]
Fasten off, close, weave in end.
Sun Rays (Make 6) — Worked in Warm Brown:
Ch 8. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: slst, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, slst. Fasten off, leaving tail.
Each ray is a small pointed triangle. Sew rays evenly around the sun body, attaching at the base of each ray to the sun’s circumference.
Attachment Loop: Same as cloud — ch 6 loop sewn to the back of the sun.
BUTTON ATTACHMENT TO HANDS
Small buttons are sewn to the palm side of each hand (the side facing inward when arms are crossed, outward when arms are open). The accessory loops fit over these buttons.
Button Placement: Sew one small button to the palm of each hand using sewing thread in a matching color. Position the button approximately 2 rounds from the hand tip, centered. The button should be small enough to pass through the accessory loop but large enough to hold securely.
FINAL ASSEMBLY CHECKLIST
✦ All floss tails secured and hidden between shell and lining
✦ Lining anchored at crown, waist, cheeks, and hands
✦ Both poly pellet pouches sewn in place
✦ Arms attached and crossed for Gloomi, hand anchors in place
✦ Drawstring threaded and functional
✦ Tuck-away cover sewn in place
✦ Buttons on both hands
✦ Cloud and sun accessories complete with attachment loops
✦ Test the flip: loosen drawstring, reach inside, grasp the crown through the lining, pull the entire doll through itself. Tighten drawstring. Tuck cover. The doll should display the opposite character with all features intact. Flip back. Both configurations should look fully finished.
