🎥 Prefer watching? If you learn better by video, you can find the full step-by-step video tutorial embedded at the bottom of this article!
Hello, my wonderful crochet family! Grab a cozy cup of tea, settle into your favorite crafting chair, and get your yarn stash ready because we are diving into a magical project today. There is something endlessly enchanting about creating tiny, huggable creatures with just a hook and a ball of yarn, but when we venture into the whimsical world of fantasy characters, the joy multiplies tenfold. Today, we are celebrating a true classic in the amigurumi community: the first installment of a beloved video tutorial series guiding us through crafting a charming little witch.
Originally broadcast as a live interactive crafting session back in 2016, the video titled ‘How to crochet an Amigurumi witch Part 1/3 (body)’ holds a nostalgic and foundational place in the hearts of many crafters. Whether you are prepping your home for the autumn spooky season, looking for a unique handmade gift for a fantasy lover, or simply wanting to challenge your amigurumi shaping skills, this foundational body tutorial is your golden ticket. Part one focuses entirely on building the robust, well-proportioned base and torso of our magical little spellcaster, setting the crucial structural foundation for the head, limbs, and iconic pointed hat to come.
Working on amigurumi characters like this witch is a deeply rewarding journey. It teaches us about tension control, seamless color changes, the magic of continuous rounds, and how internal shaping can bring a flat piece of fabric to life. Even though this livestream dates back a few years, the techniques taught are wonderfully timeless and deeply effective. So, clear off your work surface, untangle that skein of yarn you have been saving for a special project, and let us break down everything you need to know to master the body of your very own crochet witch!
What You’ll Need
Before casting your first loop, gathering the right tools and materials is essential for ensuring your amigurumi witch turns out as neat, sturdy, and adorable as possible. Amigurumi projects generally require a slightly smaller hook size than recommended on the yarn label to create tight, dense stitches that prevent the stuffing from peeking through. Here is a comprehensive checklist of what you will need to get started on Part 1 of our magical journey:
- Yarn: Sport weight or light DK cotton yarn works absolute wonders for amigurumi. You will need a skin-tone color for the face/hands (if working continuously), a vibrant color for the witch’s dress, and black or dark purple for the shoes and lower skirt base.
- Crochet Hook: A 2.5mm or 3.0mm ergonomic crochet hook, depending on your personal tension. You want your fabric to be firm and tight.
- Polyfill Stuffing: High-quality polyester fiberfill for stuffing the body securely and giving her a nice, squeezable shape.
- Tapestry Needle: A blunt-tip yarn needle for weaving in ends, stitching closed openings, and eventually attaching future body parts.
- Stitch Markers: Essential for keeping track of the beginning of your rounds since amigurumi is typically worked in continuous spirals rather than joined rounds.
- Scissors: A sharp, small pair of snips for clean yarn cutting.
- Optional Tools: Pins for holding pieces in place before sewing, and a pair of small pliers if you decide to use an armature wire inside the body for posing.
Crochet Abbreviations
To successfully follow along with the pattern structure and the video tutorial, it helps to be completely familiar with standard US crochet terminology. Amigurumi relies heavily on basic stitches combined in clever ways to create shapes and volume. Here are the core abbreviations you will see and use throughout this project:
- ch: chain
- sc: single crochet
- inc: single crochet increase (work two single crochets into the same stitch to expand the piece)
- dec: single crochet decrease (invisible decrease is strongly recommended to work two stitches together cleanly)
- sl st: slip stitch
- st/sts: stitch / stitches
- rnd/rnds: round / rounds
- BLO: back loop only
- FLO: front loop only
- FO: fasten off
Step-by-Step Instructions
Breaking down an amigurumi project into manageable phases is the secret to avoiding overwhelm. In Part 1 of this series, our primary focus is constructing the lower body, torso, and establishing the base structure. Follow these structured steps alongside the video to craft a flawless foundation.
The Feet and Legs
- Start with your shoe color (typically black or dark brown). Create an adjustable loop, commonly known as a magic ring.
- Work 6 single crochets into the magic ring, pulling the tail tight to close the center hole. Place your stitch marker in the first stitch of the round and move it up with every completed round.
- Work an increase in every stitch around, giving you a total of 12 single crochets.
- Work one round of even single crochet in each stitch around to start building the depth of the shoe.
- Incorporate your color change to striped tights or the main dress color as directed in the pattern, working through the back loops for the first transition round if a crisp edge is desired.
- Continue working even rounds of single crochet up the length of the leg until you reach the desired height. Fasten off the first leg.
- Repeat steps 1 through 6 to create the second leg, but do not fasten off the second leg; this is where we will join them together to form the lower body!
Joining the Legs and Lower Body
- From the working loop on your second leg, chain a small number of stitches (usually between 2 to 4 chains) to bridge the gap between the two legs.
- Attach the chain to the first leg using a single crochet stitch, marking this as your new beginning of the round marker.
- Work single crochets all the way around the first leg, across the connecting chain, around the second leg, and across the opposite side of the chain. This creates one unified oval or circular foundation for the lower torso.
- Count your total stitches to ensure your stitch count matches the pattern requirements before proceeding upward.
- Work a few rounds of even single crochet to solidify the lower hip area, ensuring the transition between the legs looks seamless and gap-free.
The Torso and Dress Base
- Begin introducing subtle shaping decreases or increases depending on whether you want your witch to have a cinched waistline or a flowing A-line dress silhouette.
- If designing a classic witch dress, incorporate decorative stitch rows, such as working into the front loops only to create a ruffled skirt hemline or changing colors to represent a striped apron or corset bodice.
- Continue working upward toward the chest area, steadily stuffing the legs and lower torso firmly as you go. Remember: firm stuffing prevents your amigurumi from sagging over time!
- Work regular decreases near the upper chest and shoulder region to taper the torso down to a narrow neck opening.
- Stuff the upper chest area densely so the neck has structural integrity and won’t wobble when the head is attached later on.
- Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn if the pattern calls for sewing, or leave the live loop open if the tutorial demonstrates continuing directly into the head in the subsequent parts.
Customization Tips
One of the absolute greatest joys of crochet is the freedom to make every project uniquely your own. While the foundational livestream provides a brilliant, classic blueprint for our amigurumi witch, there is so much room for creative expression! Consider experimenting with her color palette to reflect your personal aesthetic. Instead of traditional black, why not craft a forest green witch with mossy brown boots, or a pastel gothic witch adorned in soft lavenders, dusty pinks, and silvery greys? You can even embroider tiny little stars, moons, or polka dots onto her dress using contrasting embroidery floss once the body is fully assembled.
Another fantastic way to customize your witch is through texture. Try using a slightly fuzzy yarn or velvet yarn for her dress to give her a cozy, enchanted winter-witch feel, or stick to smooth mercerized cotton for a crisp, sharply defined fantasy look. If you plan on gifting your creation to a younger child, make sure to embroider all facial features securely with yarn instead of using plastic safety eyes, and ensure your stuffing is non-allergenic and tightly secured. No matter how you choose to tweak the pattern, the most important ingredient is the love and creativity you stitch into every single round!
Frequently Asked Questions
What skill level is required for this amigurumi witch body tutorial?
This tutorial is best suited for advanced beginners to intermediate crocheters. You should already be comfortable with basic stitches like single crochet, working in the round with a magic ring, and basic increases and decreases.
Can I use any yarn weight for this project?
Yes, absolutely! While sport weight or DK yarn yields a classic doll size, you can use worsted weight yarn with a larger hook for a bigger, squishier witch, or embroidery thread with a tiny hook for a miniature keychain-sized witch.
How do I prevent holes from forming when I increase or decrease?
To avoid unsightly gaps in your amigurumi fabric, always ensure you are using a hook size that is slightly smaller than recommended for your yarn. Additionally, practicing the “invisible decrease” (inv-dec) method will keep your decreases looking completely seamless.
What is the best type of stuffing to use for amigurumi?
Standard polyester fiberfill is the industry standard because it is lightweight, washable, compressible, and hypoallergenic. Avoid using cotton balls or loose yarn scraps, as they tend to clump unevenly and hold moisture.
How do I keep my stitch counts accurate while working in the round?
Always use a stitch marker in the very first stitch of every round. Take a moment every few rounds to pause and recount your stitches to catch any accidental mistakes early on.
Should I stuff the legs before joining them?
Yes! It is much easier to stuff the feet and legs firmly as you go before you join them together into the torso. Trying to stuff tiny legs after the body is completed is nearly impossible.
How can I make the witch’s body stand up on its own?
If you want your witch to stand independently, you can insert small plastic circles (like cut-up plastic lids) into the bottom of the shoes before stuffing, or insert a wooden dowel or pipe cleaner armature up through the legs and torso.
Where can I find Parts 2 and 3 of this series?
Parts 2 and 3 are typically available on the same video creator’s channel or linked within the description box of the original YouTube livestream video. They cover crafting the head, hair, arms, and the iconic witch hat!
Is it better to sew pieces on or crochet them together?
It depends on personal preference and the specific designer’s instructions. Crocheting parts together often creates a stronger, more seamless bond, while sewing allows for precise positioning and easy adjustments.
How do I care for and clean finished amigurumi?
If your amigurumi gets dusty or dirty, spot cleaning with a damp cloth and mild soap is generally recommended. If hand washing is necessary, submerge gently in lukewarm soapy water, press out excess water without wringing, and lay flat to dry.
Watch the Full Tutorial
Watch the step-by-step video below and follow along at your own pace!