Project Snapshot
🧶 Finished Size: Bear 8 inches seated, Bunny 9 inches seated, duo spans 12-14 inches wide
🪡 Difficulty: Advanced
✨ Techniques: Continuous rounds, asymmetrical cheek sculpting, wired limbs, invisible decreases, color changes, surface embroidery, paw pad embroidery, flat knitting (garter stitch), wire insertion, assembly of multi-component figures
➡️ Construction: Each doll worked in separate pieces, assembled individually, then connected via the shared scarf
🧶 Yarn Weight: DK (Light Worsted, Category 3)
🪡 Hook Size: 3.0 mm (US C/2 or D/3)
🧶 Knitting Needles: 3.5 mm (US 4) for scarf
Materials
🧶 Yarn (DK weight):
For Bear:
- Cinnamon brown — body, head, limbs (approx. 100 yards)
- Espresso or dark brown — inner ears, paw pads, embroidered details (approx. 15 yards)
- Moss green — sweater (approx. 50 yards)
- Mustard yellow — elbow patch (approx. 5 yards)
For Bunny:
- Oatmeal or light taupe — body, head, limbs (approx. 95 yards)
- Pale pink — inner ears, toe beans, nose embroidery (approx. 10 yards)
- Mustard yellow — cardigan (approx. 45 yards)
- White — tail pom-pom (approx. 5 yards, or use faux fur pom-pom)
Shared Scarf:
- Cream — scarf stripes (approx. 40 yards)
- Rust or terracotta — scarf stripes (approx. 40 yards)
Accessories:
- Warm brown — acorn body (approx. 5 yards)
- Dark brown — acorn cap (approx. 5 yards)
- Burgundy — book cover (approx. 5 yards)
- Cream or off-white — book pages (approx. 3 yards)
🪡 Tools:
- 3.0 mm crochet hook (US C/2 or D/3)
- 3.5 mm knitting needles (US 4) — for scarf
- 9 mm black safety eyes (2 pairs — one for Bear, one for Bunny)
- 6 mm black safety eyes (optional — for a smaller, more delicate look on Bunny)
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing
- 18-gauge floral wire OR pipe cleaners (for limb wiring — approx. 6 feet total)
- Wire cutters (if using floral wire)
- Needle-nose pliers (for looping wire ends)
- Tapestry needle (blunt tip)
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Pins for positioning during assembly
- Small wooden beads (3) — for Bunny’s cardigan buttons
- Sewing needle and thread (for attaching buttons)
- White embroidery floss (eye highlights)
- Dark brown embroidery floss (Bear’s nose, paw pads)
- Pale pink embroidery floss (Bunny’s nose, toe beans)
Abbreviations
- sc — single crochet
- inc — increase (2 sc in same stitch)
- dec — invisible decrease (front loops only, sc2tog)
- BLO — back loop only
- FLO — front loop only
- sl st — slip stitch
- ch — chain
- st(s) — stitch(es)
- R — round
- […] x N — repeat sequence N times
- (N) — total stitch count at end of round
- k — knit (scarf section only)
- kfb — knit front and back (increase, scarf section only)
THE PATTERN — PART ONE: BEAR
BEAR HEAD
Worked top-down in continuous rounds. Begin with cinnamon brown yarn.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: [inc] x6 (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x6 (18)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x6 (24)
R5: [3 sc, inc] x6 (30)
R6: [4 sc, inc] x6 (36)
R7: [5 sc, inc] x6 (42)
R8: [6 sc, inc] x6 (48)
R9: [7 sc, inc] x6 (54)
R10-R12: sc around (54) — 3 even rounds, head sphere established
Bear cheek sculpting — asymmetrical increases on the front face plane. Identify the front of the head using your stitch marker as center-back reference. The following increases are clustered in the lower-front quadrant to create full, rounded bear cheeks.
R13: sc 5, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 28 (58)
(Increases at stitches 6, 11, 22, and 27 on the front arc — these are the cheek zones. Bear’s cheeks are wider and lower than Bunny’s.)
R14: sc 6, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 26 (62)
R15: sc 7, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 49 (64)
(Final cheek boost — two targeted increases at the cheek apex. Bear’s cheeks should now be visibly plump and rounded when viewed from the front.)
R16-R20: sc around (64) — 5 even rounds, cheeks fully settled
Eye placement: Insert 9 mm safety eyes between Rounds 13 and 14, positioned 10 stitches apart. The wider spacing and lower placement on Bear create an earnest, gentle expression. Center each eye above its corresponding cheek mound. Adjust before locking washers.
Nose embroidery: Using dark brown embroidery floss, stitch a wide triangular nose centered between and just below the eyes, spanning approximately 4 stitches wide and 3 rounds tall. Fill with satin stitch. A vertical line descending from the nose creates the mouth — use a single strand and a straight stitch approximately 2 rounds long, ending in a tiny upside-down Y.
R21: [6 sc, dec] x8 (56)
R22: sc around (56)
R23: [5 sc, dec] x8 (48)
R24: [4 sc, dec] x8 (40)
R25: [3 sc, dec] x8 (32)
R26: [2 sc, dec] x8 (24)
Firmly stuff the head. Use a stuffing tool to pack fiberfill into the cheek cavities. The head should feel dense and hold its shape without distortion. Do not under-stuff — Bear’s round cheeks depend on adequate filling.
R27: [sc, dec] x8 (16)
Add any final stuffing.
R28: [dec] x8 (8)
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail. Thread through front loops of remaining 8 stitches, pull tight to close. Weave tail through neck opening and leave hanging for sewing to body.
BEAR BODY
Worked bottom-up in continuous rounds. Begin with cinnamon brown yarn.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: [inc] x6 (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x6 (18)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x6 (24)
R5: [3 sc, inc] x6 (30)
R6: [4 sc, inc] x6 (36)
R7: [5 sc, inc] x6 (42)
R8-R10: sc around (42) — 3 even rounds, belly is round and full
R11: [5 sc, dec] x6 (36)
R12-R13: sc around (36)
R14: [7 sc, dec] x4 (32)
R15-R16: sc around (32) — neck opening matches head
Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Stuff the body firmly — denser than the head for stability. Shape the stuffing to emphasize a rounded belly. Leave tail for sewing to head.
BEAR EARS (Make 2 — Right Ear Perky, Left Ear Floppy)
The right ear is worked to a smaller size and will be sewn upright. The left ear is worked larger and will be sewn at a flop angle. Both begin with cinnamon brown and have espresso inner ear detailing.
Right Ear (perky):
R1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
R2: [inc] x4 (8)
R3: [sc, inc] x4 (12)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x4 (16)
R5-R6: sc around (16)
R7: [2 sc, dec] x4 (12)
Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. Flatten — do not stuff. The ear should hold a gentle cup shape.
Left Ear (floppy — 30% larger):
R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
R2: [inc] x5 (10)
R3: [sc, inc] x5 (15)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x5 (20)
R5-R7: sc around (20)
R8: [3 sc, inc] x5 (25)
R9-R10: sc around (25)
R11: [3 sc, dec] x5 (20)
R12: [2 sc, dec] x5 (15)
Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch tail. Flatten — do not stuff.
Inner ear detailing (both ears): Using espresso yarn, embroider a smaller oval inside each ear using satin stitch or surface crochet. The inner ear should cover roughly the center 60% of each ear.
BEAR ARMS (Make 2 — Left Wired for Reaching Toward Bunny)
Worked from shoulder down. Begin with cinnamon brown. Both arms are identical in crochet; the left arm receives wire for posing.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: [sc, inc] x3 (9)
R3: [2 sc, inc] x3 (12)
R4-R8: sc around (12) — 5 even rounds
Elbow definition:
R9: BLO sc around (12)
R10-R13: sc around (12) — forearm
Paw shaping:
R14: sc 1, inc (in stitch 2 for thumb bump), sc 9 (13)
R15: sc around (13)
Begin stuffing lightly — upper arm moderately, forearm and paw softer for flexibility.
R16: [sc, dec] x4, sc 1 (9)
Add final light stuffing.
R17: [dec] x4, sc 1 (5)
Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch (20 cm) tail. Thread through remaining stitches, pull closed. Flatten the paw slightly. The thumb bump should be visible on the inner edge.
🔌 WIRE INSERTION — LEFT ARM ONLY:
Cut a 10-inch length of 18-gauge floral wire. Using needle-nose pliers, fold each end into a small tight loop (this prevents the wire from poking through the yarn). Wrap the wire loosely in a thin layer of fiberfill. Insert the wire through the open end of the arm (at the shoulder) and push it down into the paw. The looped end should sit inside the paw tip without distorting the shape. The upper end should extend approximately 1 inch beyond the shoulder opening — this will be inserted into the body during assembly and anchored. Once the wire is seated, close the shoulder opening around the wire with a few stitches. Do not cut the tail — you will use it to sew the arm to the body.
Right arm: No wire. Stuff normally, close, leave tail for sewing.
BEAR LEGS (Make 2 — Both Wired for Sitting Pose)
Worked from sole upward. Begin with cinnamon brown.
Sole:
Ch 6.
R1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate: sc 3, inc in last st (12)
R2: inc, sc 3, [inc] x3, sc 3, [inc] x2 (18)
R3: BLO sc around (18) — sole ridge defined
R4-R6: sc around (18) — foot body
Ankle taper:
R7: [sc, dec] x6 (12)
R8-R10: sc around (12) — lower leg
Knee sculpting:
R11: BLO sc around (12)
R12-R14: sc around (12)
Thigh expansion:
R15: [3 sc, inc] x3 (15)
R16-R18: sc around (15)
Hip taper:
R19: [3 sc, dec] x3 (12)
R20: [2 sc, dec] x3 (9)
R21: [sc, dec] x3 (6)
Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Stuff firmly through the foot and lower leg. The thigh above the knee should have lighter stuffing to allow the knee to bend at the BLO crease.
🔌 WIRE INSERTION — BOTH LEGS:
Cut two 10-inch lengths of 18-gauge floral wire. Loop both ends of each wire. Wrap each wire in a thin layer of fiberfill. Insert one wire into each leg through the hip opening, pushing it down into the foot. The bottom loop should sit inside the sole; the top loop should extend approximately 1 inch beyond the hip opening. Sew the hip opening closed around the wire, leaving the tail for attachment to the body. The wire allows each leg to bend at the knee crease for a natural sitting pose.
Paw pads (embroider after legs are complete): Using espresso yarn, embroider paw pads on the bottom of each foot. Three small ovals across the ball of the foot, one larger pad toward the heel. Use satin stitch or chain stitch — keep them neat and symmetrical.
BEAR SWEATER (Moss Green with Elbow Patch)
Worked from the bottom up in continuous rounds. The sweater is a separate piece that will be pulled onto the body before the head is attached. Begin with moss green yarn.
Hem ribbing:
Ch 33, join with sl st to form a ring (32 ch — ensure it fits over the widest part of the body).
R1: sc around (32)
R2-R3: BLO sc around (32) — ribbed hem
Sweater body:
R4-R12: sc around (32) — 9 even rounds
Neckline shaping:
R13: [6 sc, dec] x4 (28)
R14: sc around (28)
R15: [5 sc, dec] x4 (24)
R16: sc around (24)
Fasten off, weave in end. The neckline should accommodate the head-neck seam.
Sleeves (make 2):
R1: 16 ch, join to form ring
R2-R5: sc around (16) — 4 rounds
R6: [2 sc, dec] x4 (12)
R7-R8: sc around (12)
Fasten off, leaving tail for sewing to armholes.
Elbow patch (mustard yellow):
Work flat. Ch 5.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, ch 1, turn (4)
Row 2-3: sc across, ch 1, turn (4)
Fasten off, leaving tail for sewing. Sew the patch to the left sleeve, positioned to cover the elbow area (approximately Rounds 3-5 of the sleeve). Use a contrasting whipstitch in mustard for a visible, charming mend.
THE PATTERN — PART TWO: BUNNY
BUNNY HEAD
Worked top-down in continuous rounds. Begin with oatmeal/taupe yarn. Bunny’s head is slightly narrower than Bear’s, with cheek shaping placed higher for a more delicate facial structure.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: [inc] x6 (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x6 (18)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x6 (24)
R5: [3 sc, inc] x6 (30)
R6: [4 sc, inc] x6 (36)
R7: [5 sc, inc] x6 (42)
R8: [6 sc, inc] x6 (48)
R9-R11: sc around (48) — 3 even rounds
Bunny cheek sculpting — increases placed higher and more subtly than Bear’s. The front of the head is identified using the stitch marker as center-back reference.
R12: sc 4, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 27 (52)
(Increases at stitches 5, 9, 18, and 22 — higher on the face plane, creating lifted, more refined cheeks.)
R13: sc 5, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 36 (54)
R14-R17: sc around (54) — 4 even rounds, cheeks settled
Eye placement: Insert eyes between Rounds 12 and 13. For a more delicate look, use 6 mm safety eyes (instead of 9 mm). Position them 9 stitches apart — slightly closer than Bear’s for a more alert, curious expression. If using 9 mm eyes, position 10 stitches apart. Center above cheek mounds.
Nose embroidery: Using pale pink embroidery floss, stitch a small triangular nose — narrower than Bear’s, approximately 3 stitches wide and 2 rounds tall. Add a delicate vertical mouth line, ending in a tiny Y-shape. Bunny’s nose sits slightly higher on the face than Bear’s.
R18: [6 sc, dec] x6 (48)
Change to 6 sc, dec sequence for Bunny’s slightly smaller head circumference.
R19: sc around (48)
R20: [5 sc, dec] x6 (42)
R21: [4 sc, dec] x6 (36)
R22: [3 sc, dec] x6 (30)
R23: [2 sc, dec] x6 (24)
Firmly stuff the head. Bunny’s cheeks need less volume than Bear’s — stuff evenly but don’t over-pack the cheek area. The head should feel firm but slightly more elongated.
R24: [sc, dec] x6 (16)
R25: [dec] x8 (8)
Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail. Thread through remaining stitches, pull closed. Leave tail for sewing to body.
BUNNY BODY
Worked bottom-up. Begin with oatmeal/taupe yarn. Bunny’s body is leaner and slightly taller than Bear’s.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: [inc] x6 (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x6 (18)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x6 (24)
R5: [3 sc, inc] x6 (30)
R6: [4 sc, inc] x6 (36)
R7-R11: sc around (36) — 5 even rounds, creating a longer torso
R12: [4 sc, dec] x6 (30)
R13-R14: sc around (30)
R15: [6 sc, dec] x4 (26) — not 32; Bunny’s neck is narrower
R16: sc around (26)
Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Stuff the body firmly but leaner than Bear — Bunny has a gentle cylindrical shape with a subtle belly curve, not a round pot belly. Leave tail for sewing to head.
BUNNY EARS (Make 2 — One Wired, One Natural Flop)
Bunny’s ears are extra-long and expressive. Both ears are worked identically in crochet; one receives a wire for adjustable posing.
Begin with oatmeal/taupe yarn.
R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
R2: [inc] x5 (10)
R3: [sc, inc] x5 (15)
R4: [2 sc, inc] x5 (20)
R5-R14: sc around (20) — 10 even rounds, creating significant length
The ear should measure approximately 4-5 inches at this point. If you prefer slightly shorter ears, reduce even rounds to R5-R11.
R15: [2 sc, dec] x5 (15)
R16-R17: sc around (15)
R18: [sc, dec] x5 (10)
R19: sc around (10)
R20: [dec] x5 (5)
Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch (20 cm) tail. Thread through remaining stitches and pull closed. The ear should be lightly stuffed in the lower third (near the head) and unstuffed through the upper two-thirds — this allows natural draping and flopping.
Inner ear detailing: Using pale pink yarn, surface-crochet or embroider a long oval shape down the center of each ear, following the ear’s curve. The pink inner ear should be visible from the front and slightly wrap to the sides.
🔌 WIRE INSERTION — RIGHT EAR ONLY:
Cut a 12-inch length of 18-gauge floral wire. Loop both ends. Thread the wire through the entire length of the right ear, from base to tip. The wire should run along the inner edge (the pink side) so the ear flops outward attractively. The bottom of the wire should extend approximately 1 inch beyond the base of the ear — this will be anchored into the head during assembly. Once wired, the right ear can be posed: dramatic sideways flop, gentle forward curve, or lifted in curiosity.
Left ear: No wire. The natural crochet fabric will flop gently in the opposite direction when sewn to the head.
BUNNY ARMS (Make 2 — Right Wired for Reaching Toward Bear)
Worked from shoulder down. Begin with oatmeal/taupe yarn. Bunny’s arms are slightly longer and leaner than Bear’s.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: [sc, inc] x3 (9)
R3: [2 sc, inc] x3 (12)
R4-R10: sc around (12) — 7 even rounds, longer forearm
Elbow definition:
R11: BLO sc around (12)
R12-R14: sc around (12)
Paw shaping — Bunny’s paws are more delicate:
R15: sc 1, inc (thumb bump), sc 9 (13)
R16: sc around (13)
Lightly stuff.
R17: [sc, dec] x4, sc 1 (9)
R18: [dec] x4, sc 1 (5)
Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch (20 cm) tail. Close opening.
🔌 WIRE INSERTION — RIGHT ARM ONLY:
Cut an 11-inch length of wire. Loop both ends. Wrap in fiberfill. Insert through the shoulder opening into the paw. The bottom loop sits in the paw tip; the top loop extends 1 inch beyond the shoulder. Sew the shoulder closed around the wire. This arm will reach toward Bear. The wire allows you to pose the arm extending across the gap between the dolls, with the shared scarf draping over both.
Left arm: No wire. This arm will hold the miniature book. Leave tail for sewing.
BUNNY LEGS (Make 2 — Both Wired for Sitting Pose)
Worked from sole upward. Bunny’s feet are elongated — more oval than round — for a distinctly rabbit silhouette.
Sole (oatmeal/taupe):
Ch 8 (longer foundation chain for elongated foot).
R1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate: sc 5, inc in last st (16)
R2: inc, sc 5, [inc] x3, sc 5, [inc] x2 (22)
R3: BLO sc around (22) — sole ridge
R4-R7: sc around (22) — foot body, longer than Bear’s
Ankle taper:
R8: [sc, dec] x7, sc 1 (15)
R9-R11: sc around (15) — lower leg
Knee sculpting:
R12: BLO sc around (15)
R13-R15: sc around (15)
Thigh:
R16: [3 sc, inc] x3, sc 3 (18)
R17-R19: sc around (18)
Hip taper:
R20: [4 sc, dec] x3 (15)
R21: [3 sc, dec] x3 (12)
R22: [2 sc, dec] x3 (9)
R23: [sc, dec] x3 (6)
Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch (25 cm) tail. Stuff firmly through foot and lower leg; lighter stuffing in the thigh for knee bend.
🔌 WIRE INSERTION — BOTH LEGS:
Follow the same method as Bear’s legs: 10-inch wire, looped ends, fiberfill wrap, insert through hip opening into foot. Close hip around wire, leave tail for sewing.
Toe beans (embroider after legs are complete): Using pale pink embroidery floss, stitch four tiny ovals across the ball of each foot and one slightly larger oval near the heel. Keep them small and delicate — Bunny’s feet are daintier than Bear’s.
BUNNY TAIL
Option 1 — Crocheted puff:
Using white yarn:
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: [inc] x6 (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x6 (18)
R4-R5: sc around (18)
R6: [sc, dec] x6 (12)
Stuff lightly.
R7: [dec] x6 (6)
Fasten off, close, leave tail for sewing.
Option 2 — Faux fur pom-pom:
Use a 2-inch pom-pom maker and white faux fur yarn. Trim to a neat sphere. This option creates a fluffier, more tactile tail.
Sew the tail to Bunny’s lower back, centered, approximately at the point where the torso meets the hips.
BUNNY CARDIGAN (Mustard Yellow, Cropped)
Worked from the bottom up. This is a cropped cardigan with three-quarter sleeves, designed to be worn open or closed with tiny buttons. Worked flat in rows, then seamed.
Back panel:
Ch 17.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, ch 1, turn (16)
Row 2-10: sc across, ch 1, turn (16)
Fasten off.
Front panels (make 2):
Ch 9.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, ch 1, turn (8)
Row 2-10: sc across, ch 1, turn (8)
Fasten off.
Sleeves (make 2, worked in rounds):
Ch 14, join to form ring.
R1-R6: sc around (14) — three-quarter length
R7: [2 sc, dec] x3, sc 2 (11)
R8: sc around (11)
Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.
Cardigan assembly:
Sew shoulder seams (2 stitches on each side). Sew sleeves to armholes. Sew side seams from underarm to hem, leaving the bottom 2 rows open for a cropped, boxy fit. The front panels remain open.
Finishing:
Work one round of sc around the entire opening — up one front panel, around the neck, down the other front panel, and along the bottom hem. This creates a neat border.
Buttons: Sew three tiny wooden beads to the right front panel, evenly spaced. Crochet three tiny chain loops on the left front panel to serve as buttonholes. Alternatively, sew the buttons through both front panels as decoration and leave the cardigan open — Bunny’s arms make it charming either way.
MINIATURE BOOK (Bunny’s Accessory)
Book cover (burgundy):
Ch 9.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, ch 1, turn (8)
Row 2-4: sc across, ch 1, turn (8)
Fasten off. This is the cover.
Book pages (cream):
Ch 9.
Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, ch 1, turn (8)
Row 2-3: sc across, ch 1, turn (8)
Fasten off.
Assembly:
Place the cream page insert on top of the burgundy cover. Fold the entire piece in half, cover side out. Using burgundy yarn, whipstitch along the spine to secure the fold. The book should be approximately 1.5 inches tall when folded. Using cream embroidery floss, stitch two tiny lines on the exposed page edges to suggest pages. Embroider a tiny gold title or star on the front cover (optional).
Position: The book is held in Bunny’s left paw (the non-wired arm). Sew a few stitches through the book spine and the paw to secure.
ACORN (Bear’s Accessory)
Acorn body (warm brown):
R1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
R2: [inc] x4 (8)
R3: [sc, inc] x4 (12)
R4-R5: sc around (12)
R6: [sc, dec] x4 (8)
Lightly stuff.
R7: [dec] x4 (4)
Fasten off, close opening.
Acorn cap (dark brown, textured):
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: [inc] x6 (12)
R3: FLO sc around (12) — working in front loops creates the cap’s overhang and texture
R4: [sc, inc] x6 in FLO (18)
Fasten off, leaving tail.
Assembly:
Sew the cap to the top of the acorn body. The cap should overhang slightly. For added texture, surface-crochet a few random short stitches on the cap in dark brown to mimic the bumpy texture of a real acorn cap.
Position: The acorn sits in Bear’s left paw (the wired arm reaching toward Bunny). Sew a few hidden stitches through the acorn and the paw pad to secure it.
THE PATTERN — PART THREE: SHARED SCARF
Knitted flat in garter stitch. This is the piece that physically and symbolically connects Bear and Bunny.
Needles: 3.5 mm (US 4)
Yarn: DK weight — Cream (C) and Rust (R)
Finished dimensions: Approximately 18-20 inches long, 2.5 inches wide
Stripe Sequence:
Cast on 12 stitches in Cream.
Row 1-4: K all stitches in Cream (C)
Row 5-8: K all stitches in Rust (R)
Row 9-12: K all stitches in Cream (C)
Row 13-16: K all stitches in Rust (R)
Row 17-20: K all stitches in Cream (C)
Row 21-24: K all stitches in Rust (R)
Row 25-28: K all stitches in Cream (C)
Row 29-32: K all stitches in Rust (R)
Row 33-36: K all stitches in Cream (C)
Row 37-40: K all stitches in Rust (R)
Row 41-44: K all stitches in Cream (C)
Row 45-48: K all stitches in Rust (R)
Row 49-52: K all stitches in Cream (C)
Row 53-56: K all stitches in Rust (R)
Row 57-60: K all stitches in Cream (C)
Row 61-64: K all stitches in Rust (R)
Row 65-68: K all stitches in Cream (C)
Bind off in Cream.
The finished scarf should have 9 cream sections and 8 rust sections, beginning and ending with cream. The stripe sequence is identical on both ends — this matters because the scarf is symmetrical: one end wraps around Bear, the other around Bunny, and the middle drapes between them. No matter which direction the viewer looks from, the scarf reads as intentional.
Finishing: Weave in all ends. Steam-block lightly to flatten the garter stitch and even out the stripes. Do not stretch aggressively — you want the scarf to retain its cozy, squishy drape.
Optional fringe: If desired, add 2-inch fringe to both ends of the scarf. Cut 4-inch strands of cream yarn. Attach 3-4 strands to each end using a latch hook or pull-through method. Trim evenly. The fringe adds movement and a rustic, handmade feel.
ASSEMBLY — THE COMPLETE GUIDE
Assembly is performed in this specific order. Pin all pieces before sewing. Check proportions and poses from multiple angles before committing to stitches. The wired limbs require extra care during attachment — ensure the wires are anchored securely inside the body cavity.
BEAR ASSEMBLY
1. Head to Body
Align the 32-stitch neck opening of Bear’s head with the 32-stitch neck opening of Bear’s body. The head seam should face the back. Whipstitch through both loops around the entire circumference. The neck should be secure and slightly compressed. Add or remove stuffing through any small gap before closing completely.
2. Ears to Head
- Right ear (perky): Sew between Rounds 17 and 20 on the right side of the head, upright with a slight forward curve. The inner ear faces forward.
- Left ear (floppy): Sew between Rounds 16 and 19 on the left side of the head, rotated 90 degrees so it flops sideways and slightly downward. Use the gathering stitch technique — take one small stitch through the inner base of the ear and pull gently to create the “flop fold” before securing fully.
3. Arms to Body
- Right arm (no wire): Sew to the right shoulder. Position relaxed, angled slightly downward and forward. The paw rests on the lap or beside the body.
- Left arm (wired): Insert the exposed wire end into the left shoulder of the body, piercing through the crochet fabric and into the stuffing. Bend the wire inside the body cavity to anchor it — a small hook shape works well. Sew the arm securely to the shoulder around the wire. Once attached, bend the arm at the elbow (the BLO crease) and pose it extending forward and slightly across the body — this arm will reach toward Bunny. The acorn will be placed in this paw.
4. Legs to Body
Position Bear in a seated posture. Insert the wire ends from both legs into the bottom of the body. Anchor the wires by bending them into hooks inside the body cavity. Sew the legs securely to the body. The legs should angle forward with bent knees — the BLO knee creases should bend naturally. Adjust the wire pose until Bear sits stably.
5. Sweater
Pull the moss-green sweater onto Bear’s body. The hem should sit at the natural waistline. The neckline should rest against the neck seam. Slide the sleeves onto the arms and sew the sleeve tops to the sweater’s armhole area. Tack the sweater to the body with hidden stitches at the side seams. The elbow patch should be visible on the left sleeve.
6. Acorn
Sew the acorn into Bear’s left paw. A few hidden stitches through the acorn and the paw pad are sufficient.
BUNNY ASSEMBLY
1. Head to Body
Align the 26-stitch neck opening of Bunny’s head with the 26-stitch neck opening of Bunny’s body. Whipstitch securely. Bunny’s neck is slightly narrower than Bear’s — this contributes to the more delicate, refined silhouette.
2. Ears to Head
- Right ear (wired): Insert the exposed wire end into the top-right side of Bunny’s head, between Rounds 16 and 18. Anchor the wire by bending it inside the head cavity. Sew the ear base securely. Once attached, pose the ear — dramatic sideways flop to the right, or a gentle forward curve. The wire allows future adjustment.
- Left ear (natural flop): Sew between Rounds 16 and 18 on the left side of the head. Angle the ear so it flops naturally to the left. No wire means this ear will have a softer, more organic drape. Position it so it flops in the opposite direction from the right ear.
3. Tail
Sew Bunny’s tail to the lower back, centered just above where the legs attach. The tail should sit at the very bottom of the back, visible from the side profile.
4. Arms to Body
- Left arm (no wire, book-holding): Sew to the left shoulder. Position it bent at the elbow, forearm angled inward, paw cupped to hold the book.
- Right arm (wired): Insert the exposed wire end into the right shoulder of Bunny’s body. Anchor by bending the wire into a hook inside the body cavity. Sew the arm securely. Once attached, bend the arm at the elbow and pose it extending toward Bear — this arm will reach across the gap between the two dolls.
5. Legs to Body
Follow the same method as Bear’s legs. Insert wires, anchor inside body, sew securely. Pose Bunny in a seated position with bent knees. Bunny’s longer legs should extend slightly further forward than Bear’s.
6. Cardigan
Dress Bunny in the cropped mustard cardigan. The cardigan can be worn open — the front panels framing Bunny’s torso. Sew the sleeves to the upper arms (Bunny’s arms are thin, so the sleeves will be slightly loose — this is charming and intended). Tack the cardigan at the shoulders and side seams to prevent shifting. The wooden button details should be visible on the front.
7. Miniature Book
Sew the book into Bunny’s left paw. Position the book open, pages facing forward, as if Bunny was reading aloud to Bear.
CONNECTING THE DUO — THE SHARED SCARF
This is the most important assembly step. The scarf is what transforms two individual dolls into a single, emotionally resonant piece.
- Position Bear and Bunny side by side, approximately 3-4 inches apart. Bear sits on the left; Bunny sits on the right. They should face forward with a slight inward angle toward each other — adjust the wired arms and legs to fine-tune their poses.
- Drape the scarf around Bear’s neck first. One end of the scarf (approximately 4-5 inches of the cream section) wraps once around Bear’s neck and hangs down loosely in front.
- Stretch the scarf across the gap between the dolls. The scarf should drape naturally — not pulled taut. A gentle, relaxed curve between their necks reads as authentic and lived-in.
- Wrap the remaining end of the scarf around Bunny’s neck. The scarf should wrap once and hang down loosely, mirroring Bear’s side. The stripe pattern will be visible along the entire length of the draped scarf.
- Adjust the drape. The middle of the scarf (the section between their necks) should hang slightly lower than the neckline — gravity doing its quiet work. Fluff the scarf ends at both sides so they sit naturally against each doll’s chest.
- Once the scarf is positioned perfectly, tack it in place with a few hidden stitches at each neck. This prevents the scarf from slipping during display. The tacks should be invisible — use matching thread and stitch into the underside of the scarf.
- Pose the wired arms one final time. Bear’s left arm (with the acorn) reaches toward Bunny. Bunny’s right arm (wired) reaches toward Bear. Their paws should not quite touch — the gap is filled by the draped scarf, which visually completes the connection. The book in Bunny’s left paw and the acorn in Bear’s left paw face outward, giving the viewer something to discover from every angle.
FINAL DETAILS
Eye highlights: Using white embroidery floss, stitch a tiny highlight at the 1 o’clock position on every eye (both Bear and Bunny). One straight stitch, 2 mm long. This brings all four eyes to life.
Optional autumn leaves: Cut small leaf shapes from felt in rust, gold, and burgundy. Scatter 2-3 leaves at the dolls’ feet or tuck one into the draped section of the scarf. This adds an atmospheric, seasonal touch perfect for photography.
Final inspection: View the duo from all angles — front, sides, back. Check that Bear’s floppy ear drapes naturally, that Bunny’s wired ear is posed expressively, that the scarf connects them gracefully, and that both dolls sit stably. Adjust wiring as needed.
